Perched on a rocky spur between Tournus and Cluny, Brancion has kept its castle, its covered market and its Romanesque church of Saint-Pierre, which faces the Grosne valley. A lovely outing 28 km from the campsite, just across the Saône.
A medieval village on the road between two abbeys
Brancion is a hamlet in the commune of Martailly-lès-Brancion, in Saône-et-Loire. Perched on a rocky spur, it stands on the Romanesque route that links the abbeys of Tournus and Cluny. The village is entirely car-free: you walk in through the fortified gate and wander along flower-lined lanes between the castle and the church. On the central square, the 16th-century covered market recalls the days when Brancion was the seat of a powerful lordship.
Saint-Pierre church
Built in the 12th century from dressed stone and roofed with stone slabs, Saint-Pierre has been a listed historic monument since 1862. Inside, medieval wall paintings have survived the centuries, including a Christ in Majesty in the apse. In the north aisle lies the effigy of Josserand de Brancion, lord of the village, who died in 1250 at the Battle of Mansourah during the Seventh Crusade. In front of the porch, a grassy terrace looks out over the Grosne valley, and a small herb garden has been planted next door.
The castle and its keep
Above the village, the castle of Brancion sums up the history of castle building, from Carolingian times to the French Wars of Religion. Privately owned but open to visitors, it is restored and run by a heritage association. Visits come with an audio guide, also available in Dutch, and you can climb the keep, more than 20 metres high, for a 360-degree view over the village and the Mâconnais countryside.
Planning your day out
Brancion is about 28 km from Camping Les Ripettes. Once you have crossed the Saône at the Fleurville bridge, the road climbs through the Mâconnais vineyards via Uchizy and Chardonnay. Wear comfortable shoes, as everything is explored on foot. Cluny is only about 20 km further on, so the two make an easy pairing for a day devoted to Romanesque art. Opening times and prices for the castle and church change with the seasons, so check the official website before you set off.